Sent on July 5, 2003 from La Paz, Baja.

Mile=14,329/23,385km North America. Hello from La Paz, Baja
(Mexico). (Sent this on Sat. July 5, 2005 at 3 p.m. MST.)

1. Basics.

US $ = 10.3 Mexican Pesos (also shown by $). La Paz is on
the Baja California Peninsula, extending north to south to
the west of Mexican mainland, the two separated by Gulf of
California.  The distance from Tijuana (On Rt.1) to La Paz
is 950 miles, almost all of it winding thru rugged
mountains and hills, desert landscape, and canyon country
dotted with scenic ravines, gulches, and arroyos.  Almost
the entire distance is one profusely decorated rock and
cactus garden, that reminded me of the (shorter) distance
between Tuscon to Phoenix to Flagstaff.  Where the desert
meets the sea on either side you have some of the most
scenic desert-shore views.  In Guerrero Negro, about
halfway to La Paz, time changes to Mountain Standard. 

2. Caution.

a) CAR PERMIT. If you insist taking your car to Mexico (but
NOT Baja), know that you MUST have a permit; check with AAA
for details.  I did not have one, but lucky for me that a
border guard--at one of the 5 check points I passed thru as
I drove south--asked me if I was going to the mainland. 
When I replied yes, he gave me the permit on the spot, for
the regular 205 Pesos (or $21), which permit you must take
to a bank for payment and getting the permit stamped.

b) INSURANCE.  I got full liability and collision insurance
for  (and bail and litigation, if problems) on the US side
just before entering Tijuana.  I was quoted $120 for 15
days, $250 for 30 days, and $221 for the year.  (imagine!)
Feeling I was getting suckered in, I got the annual
coverage--also because I may be back in Yucatan, Mexico for
the New Year's.  The paper has a tel. number to call in
many cities.  Of course, one is never sure if these people
talk English, how and if they will help, etc.

3. La Paz, Baja (about 300,000 population) is a very quaint
coastal city.  Though not as elegant as, for example, La
Jolla, Del Mar, or South Beach (Miami), it lacks nothing on
these on scenery and vibrant lifestyle.  It has a charming
(and swinging) Ocean Drive (Paseo Alvard Obregon) that
frames the city for about 2 miles to the east.  Continue
that road 11 more miles to the ferry station and many more
very scenic coves and other coastal views.

However, BEWARE of the city police (in La Paz) who want to
ticket you--they want payment on the spot--for any
violation, also for not wearing seat belts.  I got stopped
twice for 15 minutes where the cop insisted I pay, whereas
I simply insisted that I could not understand his Spanish. 
Finally he gave up.  (If he insists, tell him to give you
the ticket, that you will pay at the police station. He
will NOT, for that is not his point, AND he could get
reprimanded for harassing a visitor for a minor infraction,
not to mention asking for a bribe.)

4. Ferry to Mainland.

The ticket office is 11 miles out of the city--as in
Juneau, Alaska (13 miles)--along the same Ocean Drive.  The
ticket office is in the pink building on your right, that
says Baja Ferries.  Where you get on the ferry is 2 km
further on the same road.  You will see a decline
separating from the road. to your left.  Since I am next
heading for the Copper Canyon on the mainland, I got my
ticket to Los Mochis (5 hours) for 580 Pesos for me and 780
Pesos for the car, for total US$145--which compares OK
vis-a-vis the ferry in Alaska.  There is a ferry to Los
Mochis every day (BUT Sunday) at 4 p.m., midnight on
Saturdays.


==========================================
Sent on July 7, 2003 from La Paz, Baja.

Baja 2. Sent on July 7, 2003 at 1pm MST.  Leaving by ferry
to the mainland today at 4 pm; will be there at about 9pm. 
Internet cost in La Paz: from 9 to 15 to 25 Pesos per hour
at the 3 places in the same block.  If you buy something
with unmarked price, ask for its price first, as they mat
charge what they feel like.

1. Addendum Baja.  In case you are not aware, Baja is
pronounced Baha, as all j in Spanish.  I should mention
about the roads here.  Good two-way highways, the lanes a
bit narrow (like in Australia and New Zealand).  Otherwise
they are much nicer than the ones in Canada going to
Alaska, though there are many road construction crews
fixing small stretches.   As for traffic, the further south
I came, the less traffic I saw going my way, like not
seeing another car in my direction for 4 hours or so. 
There were several coming from the opposite direction,
mostly BIG trucks.  As for the weather, this is desert
country, so oven-hot during the day, especially this time
of the year.  There is some breeze mainly along coastal
areas.  It is comfortable balmy in the eve.  Today while
waiting for the ferry, I decided to find a small stretch of
beach for myself.  I just sat in the water and contemplated
life for an hour or two.  The water temperature in Gulf of
California is even warmer than that of the Atlantic around
Miami.

For a hotel at perhaps the best location in La Paz consider
Hotel Plaza Real (Tel: 122-93-33) at Col. Centro, for $35
for single or double.  Right next to it is the Cafe El
Callejon, with live pop music to relax. Very good.

2. Taking your car south of the border.  By chance I met an
American named Frank at half-point down.  He gave valuable
hints, one being NOT to take a car south of Mexico, each
country requiring a car permit, insurance, etc.  Without
Spanish, I would be open to getting ripped off.

Car Permit.  To get the permit in La Paz, you must drive to
the FIRST ferry station on your left about 11 miles out of
town.  (It is about .5km from the pink building further up
on your right, where you get the ferry ticket.) The cost is
$24.20.  You need 3 copies each of your passport, drivers
license, registration, and your tourist card.  (If you get
it done at the office 3 doors to the left of where you get
the permit, you pay 50 cents per page.) The whole thing
took an hour.  You have to paste a sticker on your window.

3. Cabo San Lucas. This place is at the southern tip of
Baja, about 150 miles from La Paz.  The road makes a circle
in that you go to Cabo say from Rt.1 on the east and come
back via Rt. 9 and 1 from the west.  I passed a few quaint
villages going down.  On the way back, the town of Todos
Santos seemed interesting, also because I young Americans
living there.  Cabos itself is designed like American
cities, but not much in personality and certainly NOT
walker-friendly.  The Hilton and Westin, etc. surely look
nice, but they are like enclaves catering to certain
people, taking up lots of space.  I like La Paz better,
also because the sea is easily accessible from several
places.  I was glad there were more tourists there, leaving
La Paz to people like me.  (After all, I did not come all
this distance into Mexico so I can be among Americans.)

4. Bottomline: should you drive to Mexico.  Unless you know
Spanish, and/or married to a Mexican spouse, I suggest that
you FLY to your destination in Mexico, then rent a car
there if you want to see the surrounding areas.  The
driving was not difficult in Baja, but it will probably get
cumbersome on the mainland.  In Baja, gasoline is about 60
cents more expensive per gallon.  Mexico is NOT a small
country, and it is congested.  Circling it will take days. 
Depending on how I feel, I might return to the States and
do my visiting by flying to certain parts as my hub for
that area.  I'll decide this after I get to the mainland.


=============================================
Sent on July 10, 2003 from El Fuerte, Mexico.

1. Baja to mainland, Mexico.  Baja has 2 parts; Baja
(north) and Baja Sur (South) as 2 official states.  Up
north, time is on PCT, south MST. Upon arrival on the
mainland, I was on CST.  The distance to the mainland is
about 100 miles; made it in 6 hours, to a place called
Topolobampo, 12 miles to the west of Los Mochis.  We
arrived at 11pm.  I was not sleepy, so decided to drive to
El Fuerte that night, a distance of about 100 km (60
Miles).  2 words of caution:  1) Mexicans love speed bumps;
they are everywhere and really jar the vehicle.  2) Much of
Baja and back country of mainland are open range; cows,
horses, goats, not to mention wildlife, cross the highway. 
Be alert.  The check-point at arrival was almost nothing. 
There is a more serious but minor check before you embark
the ferry, your car permit being the most important.  One
suggestion on the ferry: if you are going to use the
bathroom, do so at the beginning of the trip.  All commodes
were clogged at the end, messy floors.

2. "I could have danced all night..."  There was live
entertainment on the ferry.  The singer also warmed up the
audience to participate, very nicely done, in one instance
coming to me with the microphone to sing the lyrics to a
song.  Without missing the beat I sang "I don't know any
Spanish, but I will try to make up words as I go along..." 
It took them a moment to comprehend what I was doing;
everyone cheering wildly the speaker emphasizing me as an
"Americano" something.  This was curious, for Mexicans
themselves would also qualify as Americano, though they and
other populations of the Americas reserved this label for
us.

Then when the Latin mambo beat began, a few daring females
began to dance, the males waiting longer before some might
have made fools of themselves.  To encourage other guys, I
got up and did a nice performance for about 5 minutes with
one of the young chicks.  I grew up with Latin dances and
can perform say about 5 varieties of rhythmic steps.  I
these, I can match anyone, and it showed.  When it was
over, the girls said in reasonably good English " You are a
really good dancer."  I humbly replied " I know," to which
she smiled.  Although there was a loud applause, it was
more perfunctory.  The faces said they did NOT like a
Gringo beat them at their own game.

After my performance, not one male got up to dance for the
next 3 hours the show was on.  However, 2 young women who
worked for the ship did put on the best rhythmic moves--all
parts in harmony with each other, and the beat--I have ever
seen.  I sensed they were waiting for me to join them, but
having done my share, I played hard to get... unless I was
asked.  I was not. In disco beat, I can match anyone, but
some of the other faster Latin beats, I would not have been
as choreographed as those 2 girls.

3. El Fuerte (The Fort).  I arrived in El Fuerte at 12:30am
and parked the car at the Pemex gas station at the entry of
the village, which is a hint for you to do the same if you
decide to spend the night in your car.  Actually, I was
first parked in an empty lot.  Somehow the police noticed
me there, and told me to move my car there, that it would
be safer for me.

4.  Gateway to the Copper Canyon.  The reason I put El
Fuerte to my agenda is in that it is the gateway to the
Copper Canyon.  You take the train from there to Creel,
Est., one way for $52.  In Creel, I jumped into a bus for
the 8-hour grueling drive down to the bottom of the canyon.
 There is a backpacker lodge there for the night.  Take the
bus back the next day, the train back to Creel the day
after.  There are 2 trains from El Fuerte to Creel, at
8:20am and 9:30am--but be there say about 7:30am for the
early train--2 back in the afternoon.  The trains are
spotless and quite full, most passengers having boarded in
Los Mochis.

5. Recommend Hotel La Choza. El Fuerte is a very neat small
town that would put many of our own small towns in the
Southwest USA to shame.  It is spotless.  The town is
arranged around a town square, as I like city designs.  All
walker-friendly shops, like restaurants, gift-shops, cafes,
etc. are arranged around the square, businesses like gas
stations, that cause dead spaces are left outside.  Very
nice.  Right at the square is the above-mmentionedhotel.  I
came there at 9.30am, to enjoy my room for whole day.  They
qquoted600 Pesos for the room; I said I am looking for a
cheaper hotel; the price came down to 400 Pesos; I said I
am willing to pay 350 Pesos ($35).  They accepted--which
makes me think they might have accepted also 250 perhaps. 
It is an excellent room, with 2 double beds, hard
mattresses, decorated with Spanish tiles, with a fan, air.
cond., and a walk-in shower that did not just sprinkle but
came out in gushes.  For another 30 Pesos I had 4 pieces of
laundry done, and for 30 more had my car washed nicely. 
Bargain for these.  The laundry was 50 initially.  One
reason I got this hotel, as recommended by the 3 American
women at the train station, was that they let you park your
car there safely, while you take the train to the Copper
canyon.

6. Circle Mexico, but NOT in the Summer.  Don't come to
Mexico in the summer.  It is VERY VERY hot, the mainland
even more so.  The Tropic of Cancer line is just to the
south of La Paz in Baja, about here, which marks the
beginning of the tropics on the north.  The Sun is very
unforgiving; my hair is getting bleached rapidly,
interesting to see myself as a blond.  (I had glimpses of
myself so while in Saudi Arabia.)

7. Plans Next.  Return to Los Mochis and drive along the
coast to Mazatlan, Puerto Vallerte, to Acapulco, each
distance of about 500 miles in a day, but I am not sure
yet.  The heat is oppressive, will get more so.  I might
NOT have mentioned, BUT I don't have air conditioning.


=============================================
Sent on July 13, 2003 from Los Angeles, CA.

1. Mexican Experience.  Having traveled some 10 days and
2,247 miles in Mexico, I can say that if Southeast Asia
rates as tops in visitor-friendliness (cheap, superb
service, helpful and friendly English-speaking people,
etc.), Mexico would rate somewhere at the bottom, below
Argentina, Peru, and Chile in Latin America--(see "road
taxes" below). I quit my circle of Mexico after 60 miles
south of Los Mochis, for 3 reasons:

a) The heat.  Today when I was passing thru Yuma, Arizona
and the Mojave Desert 1,000 miles to the north, the temp
was 120F (-32/1.8 = 49C).  You know what?  120F felt
"cooler" compared to the heat in Baja and 1,000 miles
closer to the Equator.  (This said, remember that the
hottest places are not necessarily at the Equator.  For
example, if I recall correctly, the 183F (83.9C) recorded
at Death Valley (Calif) is the hottest temperature 
measured anywhere, though I often felt the same while
camping in the desert in Saudi Arabia, where static objects
moved ghost-like in heat waves.)  I would have still
continued my trip but for the next 2 reasons.

b) The Scenery south of Los Mochis was boring; it is flat
farm country.  It seemed I would have to drive 100s of
miles thru boring countryside to reach a pocket of beauty,
then possibly repeat this to next destination and the next.
 I decided the benefits did not justify the costs.

c) Foremost, road taxes in Mexico are a calculated highway
robbery.  Within 60 miles south of Los Mochis, I stopped at
3 toll booths.  (There had been no such road taxes in
Baja.)  The first was 33 Pesos ($3.30)  I thought this
would last say at least 50 miles or so.  Forget it. 20
miles later it was 17 Pesos, 10 miles after that another 30
Pesos.  Unlike the turnpikes in USA, where you get a ticket
at the beginning and then pay lump-sum at the end, with the
rates marked for each exit, it seemed here you paid about 3
times the rates in Florida for lesser roads, periodically
stopping the flow of the drive and waiting for the traffic
ahead to clear the booth.  It became clear that to circle
Mexico I would have pay hundreds of Dollars in road taxes
and be annoyed by frequent stops.  By the 3rd booth, I gave
up and decided to backtrack to home, of course, paying
hefty taxes for the next 250 miles, until I got on the FREE
roads to Nogales, Arizona.

2.  Free versus Toll Roads.  Mexico is deliberately set up
to sock it to the unaware American (or other) tourists, and
Mexicans who live in USA and return to visit family
periodically.  When I first got the major north-south road
(Rt.15) from Los Mochis, I was surprised that there were
very few cars on the road.  I thought this is nice; I can
speed thru the boring parts.  Then I began to see the
scheme.  Exorbitant tolls.  The local Mexicans did not have
to pay them.  There were enough unofficial exits for the
locals to enter and exit the toll roads between the toll
booths.  So aside from local drivers in beat-up trucks,
there were almost no long-distance autos on the road, a
moderate traffic in buses and big trucks.

Apparently each road has also a free (LIBRE) version, going
to the same destination.  There was much more traffic on
them, and they passed thru every village, town, and city
along the way.  This meant passing over many speed bumps,
putting up with livestock on the road (not to mention
people on a bike with no lights in the dark), and all sorts
of delays, which surely are no fun if you are planning to
be on the road for 4,000+ miles.  And on Free roads, often
you reach a point where the road parts, one side say to
Nogales (where you have been heading for) and another to an
unknown town.  Of course you take the former, thinking this
is where the Free road continues, only to find yourself at
a toll booth 15 minutes later.  This happened to me twice
coming back; it took me 15 minutes each time to find my way
back to where the road had parted and get back on the free
road and try the other road, which said Nogales only after
you were already on that road (rather than saying
Nogales-Free and Nogales-Toll at the Intersection).  I
imagined myself doing this kind of guessing-exercise
circling entire Mexico.  I decided against it.

I should add something else about Mexican roads: there is
often no shoulder--next to the road--on either side.  If
you take your eyes off the road even for a split-second,
like when lighting a cigarette, you could be in for a big
trouble, for often the road is also 2 to 3 feet off the
ground next to the road, high enough to roll the car, not
to mention the livestock on or crossing the road at all
hours.  So driving in the countryside of Mexico is not as
leisurely as touring should be.

3. SUMMARY. Albeit, my suggestion in the previous report is
valid: fly to where you want in Mexico, enjoy the place
(hopefully without getting ripped off in some way), and
then get out.  Baja, Mexico is much nicer and relatively
safe from the hassles of the mainland, where, for example,
you do not need a car permit.  But even there, get a map
and arrange a flight say to Guerrero Negro at mid-way (thus
saving yourself 500 or so miles to the north, especially
the congested Northwest around Ensenada), rent a car there,
and investigate Baja from there to the south, emphasizing
the Laguna Ojo de Liebra to the west, the stretch from
Mulege to Loreto on the east, the bay from San Evaristo on
the north to La Paz on the south, and the town of Todos
Santos, southwest from La Paz.   

4. Good to be back in USA.  The Sonora Desert that covers
the entire Northwest Mexico was nice--but less than the
corresponding Mojave Desert on the USA side.   I arrived at
the border checkpoint in Nogales at 12:30am, and within
minutes was on Rt.19 heading north to the (Interstate) I.10
East-West, on a perfect asphalt, wide lanes with wide
shoulders, spotless nature.  Then I saw the sign I was
looking for, one I had missed also in Canada: REST AREA. 
This is one of the nicest treats of traveling in USA, where
you can take a break, drink clean water, use a clean
bathroom, wash-up, get something packaged to eat or drink,
stretch your legs, sit at a picnic table, indeed try to get
some sleep, all for free, all in relative safety.  These,
in addition to the more formal such areas on turnpikes, all
sorts of other convenient exits with truck stops, etc.,
make driving in USA a real pleasure, especially in the
countryside.  Having crossed the USA some 50 times
north-south and east-west, I feel I have used almost all of
these rest areas at one time or other.  I view them as my
home away from home; I look for them, even if I have no
need for one at the moment . . .  Although I did not regret
my 10-day excursion to Mexico, especially the part thru
Baja, I knew I had done the right thing by interrupting my
trip there under the circumstances; now it felt good to be
back in USA, never mind the 120F.  


=============================================
Sent on July 20, 2003 from Miami Beach, FL.

Huh, this was a long trip and I got lots to post, before I
take off again.  On the last leg (of circling North
America) from California, I spot-checked my old hometown
of Los Angeles and San Diego, climbed up the tramway at the
much overrated Palm Springs, passed thru the unbelievable
heat of the Sonora and Mojave deserts, was blown
lane-to-lane at windy New Mexico, browsed the endless Texas
landscape, stopped at the Alamo in San Antonio, tolerated
the worst rush-hour traffic in USA, that of Houston,
visited the dingy-by-day/alive-at-night French Quarters of
New Orleans, took an excursion to the Dauphin Islands south
of Mobile, Alabama, reaching Florida from the Perdido Beach
and Gulf Breeze, caught up with a old friend in Navarre,
another near Tampa, another in Sarasota, passed thru the
Big Cypress National Forest and finally made it to the hot
and very humid Miami Beach, 19,604 miles in toto in 2
months and 4 days.