Sirman's Report of Cyprus & Rhodes
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Sent on Oct. 11, 2004 from the Internet place at the waterfront in Girne, about across from tourism office. 1. HATAY, TURKEY. Wıthın an hour of arrıval, I sıgned up for the 3:45pm bus to the Medıterranean town of Tasucu and the ferry to Cyprus. To pass the tıme I went to the world-famous museum of Roman mosaıcs, busts, sculpture, coıns, at thıs ancıent sıte of Antioch. Hatay ıs surrounded by rugged very scenıc hılls and mountaıns. At the foot of one ıs the St. Peter,s church. I took a cıty bus to there, walked around a bıt, took some photos, and came back. 2. CYPRUS. The bus left us about 1/2 km from the ferry statıon ın the mıddle of nowhere ın the dark. Most passengers were Turkısh men goıng to Cyprus to fınd work. A tractor came and pıcked the luggage. Of all the ferrıes I took around the world, I have never seen anythıng as prımıtıve. The ferry boot was ancıent; ıt departed 3 hours late for the 6-hour journey. We arrıved at 9am. Thıs was even more prımıtıve. The ferry docked some 1/2 km from the statıon and lıke sheep people began walkıng that dıstance carryıng theır heavy loads. I refused and jumped on the tractor brought ın for heavy boxes, etc. beıng shıpped. After long lınes for passport, I offıcıally entered Cyprus. By the way, although thıs ıs supposed to be Turkey, ıt ıs not. I got an exıt stamp for Turkey before ferry; I got a separate entry to Cyprus. There are no tourıst offıces at the arrıval scene. I got hotel Atlantıs for 40 dollars a nıght. The fıshıng vıllage and the waterfront part of the vıllage Gırne ıs one of the most scenıc and ıdyllic I have ever seen. BUT unless you go on an organızed tour, skıp Cyprus. Also know that thıs place ıs one of the most expensıve I have ever vısıted. I hope to return to maınland wıth the 2-hour fast ferry at 9:30am. =========================================================== Sent on Oct. 15, 2004 from an Internet place near the hotel in Kars. 1. HATAY to TASUCU. The bus ride from Hatay to Tasucu--where I got on the ferry to Cyprus--was nice, especially the part thru the city of Iskenderun on the same peninsula as Hatay. Iskenderun too is scenic city surrounded on one side by mountains, on the other by the Mediterranean. The cities of Adana (larger) and Mersin took sometime to cross. I did not find them particularly attractive, with endless apartment buildings spread in every direction. This is how most people live worldwide, from Hong Kong to Beirut to Rio; in condos, the well-to-do in finer buildings in finer locations, the less-well-off in corresponding setup. Single family homes are reserved for the VERY-well-off, then in very elaborate mansions and villas. 2. IN TASUCU, THE FERRY RIDE. For reasons of security, the bus left us some distance from the ferry station. It was nearly 10pm and we seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. Then there appeared 3-wheel motorcycles with carts attached behind them. The short ride to the station costs about $2.25 which you can share with other passengers. The ferry price is an outrageous $40, 13 which includes some sort of tax. You get in line to get the ticket, in another line for the exit stamp from Turkey. (Although Turkish Cyprus is Turkish, it is considered an independent entity.) After you cross the platform to the ferry climb up the steps to the lower lounge, get yourself one of those seats in the middlele that do NOT have armrests. There are only a few of these; the rest of the chairs are separated by armrests. This is going to be your bed for the night. The ferry was supposed to have taken off at 12; it did at 2am. I woke up at about 7 and watched the mountainous outlinen of Cyprus grow. 3. ARRIVAL AT GIRNE FERRY STATION, a) AS IS. Upon arrival at 8am, we got into a long and disorderly line for passport check, where I got my entry stamp to Cyprus, and eventually stepped out to a small street witht taxis waiting for passengers. There are no tourist counters, just taxi drivers who have their own agendas and/or also working for (for example) the Mavi (Blue) Tour agency in the village. Because of road construction, the driver left me 20 meters from Mavi Tour, charging me 4 Dollars for the short ride. I thought this was all to the village. Mavi Tour helps out with hotels, but only the more expensive hotels starting at $40 a night. Once you are dropped off at that location, the taxis at the stand near Mavi Tour do NOT take you to the hotels at the waterfront. As luck would have it, I got a room with Hotel Atlantis at perhaps the most beautiful location in the entire village, for which I had to drag my bags about 1/4 km thru narrow streets. b) RECOMMENDED SHORTCUT IN GIRNE. Instead, as soon as you exit the ferry station, ask a taxi to take you to HOTEL ATLANTIS, for about the same price. Facing the hotel, you'll have behind you a few steps leading to the most beautiful setup for a fishing village you'll ever see, with fishing boats of all sizes neatly lined to each other along a curving alcove facing right next to them the tables and chairs of the many cafes and restaurants, with the castle to your right, the quaint walkway to your left hugging the shore. Yes, by God, they even have tourist desk about 50 meters to your left, an Internet cafe right across from it below the PILOT CASINO. This is an ideal setting for browsing, strolling, and picturesque daydreaming... (The best kebab restaurant is NIYAZI, about 1 km on the road to the left. Ask for it.) Leave your bags at Hotel Atlantıs entry and, and look for the 2 HOSTELs right next to each other, very near around one corner, the exact location of which, alas, I forgot. Facing the hotel, take a walk (I think) along the road to the left and away from the waterfront. By all means, if you see local, ask. Hotel Atlantıs charges $40 off-season, the hostels half that amount. Treat yourself to a wonderful supper at Niyazizi for the difference. There are buses to the nearby villages on the Turkish side, or you can rent a car and, if a foreigner, you can enter the Greek side too, whichh the Turks cannot. Rental cars are for minimumm 3 days. I think Girnee waterfront is so perfect that any other scene will just dilute it. Do your browsingg elsewhere, for you are already at a paradise. Be sure to catch the 9:30 am fast ferry boats when you are ready to leave the island. Call a taxi at 8 am. You will be in linee for the ticket, then to pay some sort of tax, then get an exit stamp, and then walk about 50 meters to one of the ferry boats. Upon arrival in Tasucu, again, get on one of those 3-wheel bikes with carts. It willl take you to a bus to your destination, or connect you to the otogar. =========================================================== Sent on Oct. 21, 2004 from an Internet place next to the Bergama Restaurant in the Closed Bazaar at the waterfront in Marmaris. 5. TO RHODES ISL. The owner of the hotel Karaaslan in Marmaris will tell you to go to the YESIL (Green) MARMARIS tour agency near the hotel. From the taxi stand in front of the hotel, face the water, walk the sidewalk along the water to your left. The agency is about 20 meters on your left. The ticket to Rhodes costs 69 million TL, or about 45 Dollars, including all fees. Be in front of the ATATURK Statue at 8 in the morn for pick-up by a large bus. It will take you to the commercial pier just out of town. After exit stamp from Turkey, you enter the catamaran to Rhodes, the ride about an hour. You get entry stamp to Greece. Follow that road to the walls of the Old City and enter there. Right at the wall, there is a moped rental place for daily rate of 15 Euros. They do not rent by the hour. You dont need to. Most people go to Rhodes to walk around the shops and cafes and restaurants in the old city. The setting is beautiful. Whereas Marmaris is situated along a bay, the Old Town of Rhodes is in a very pretty historical setting, with all kinds of interesting structures besides. I rate it 10. It is almost as pretty as the PLAKA (Old City) in Athens. To get back to Marmaris be back at the pier by 3:30pm--so that you have about 5.5 hours in Rhodes, unless you came for several days, in which case do rent a moped. Better have a travel book with you for hostels, etc. as the hotels are expensive. The same bus that picked you up at the Ataturk Statue will bring you back there from the pier. Sirman