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Sent from Athens, Greece on Aug 25, 2005 

Skopje, to Edirne (Turkey) to Salonika, Athens, Crete,
Peloponnese, (ship to) Corfu. Hi fr. Greece

I am typing this from Greece.  Leaving tonight on 9pm bus
to Tirane, expect to be there by 1pm tomorrow.  After
sightseeing that day--and catching up on sleep--next
morning, I will take the bus (2 hours or so) to KOSOVO,
return, take a 1.5-hour bus to the coastal town of DURRE
(Albania), and catch the 20-hour ferry to ANCONA, Italy, to
the south of SAN MARINO and Venice.  The next report will
come at the end of my Italian passage, to Trieste.

1. Skopje to Edirne, Turkey ($=1.3 NEW Turkish Liras, Euro
= 1.5 NTL).  As I had mentioned in last email, I came here
for the sole purpose of visiting the Selimiye Mosque done
by the greatest Ottoman architect Sinan, whose statute is
on the grounds, left downhill from the mosque.  Indeed the
Selimiye Mosque is magnificent.  There are other mosques
and old buildings in the city.  I found Edirne, my first
time there, very clean, charming, and a vibrant city.  Glad
I stopped there.

a) Getting out.  The bus from Skopje that brought me
actually passes Edirne.  They wanted to drop me off on the
highway; I insisted that I was told I would be taken to the
bus gar there.  They did, and I found a city bus (No.4, 50
NEW Turkish cents) going to town upon arrival.  It dropped
me off 1 block down the hill from the Selimiye Mosque at
about 7am.  By 10am I was done with my city walk.  The free
minibuses to the bus gar leave from the street framing the
left of the Selimiye Mosque--looking from downhill.  I took
that bus and connected to the 11am 2-hour bus to Ke(sh)an
(for 8 NEW TL = $5) where the international buses to the
west stop.  There are 2 buses daily to Athens via Salonika:
10:30am and 1:30pm, for 75 TL to Salonika, for 115 TL to
Athens.  We left at about 2:30pm, arrived in Salonika at
11:30pm, in Athens at 6:30am next morning.

2. Athens, Greece.  (Since Greece is in European Union, the
currency it uses is Euro (E)= 1.2$.)  The bus from Turkey
arrived in Northern Bus Station-B--there is also Station A
for buses to the south--in Athens, where the waiting taxi
drivers want to charge you 10 Euros to the HI Hostel at 16
Kydathineon--one of the nicest I have seen, the location
just right in the old city PLAKA.  Instead, with the bus
stop behind you, walk about 100m to your right to be at the
corner to the road to city center.  There I caught a taxi
and came to the hostel for 3E.  The hostel charges 25E for
a 4-bed dorm.  It has Internet on site (2E per 30 min),
also a travel desk.  Right next to it is the Byzantium
Restaurant, one of the best in Athens.  Try something
Greek.  This is my 4th (or so) visit to Athens, which I
think is one of the loveliest cities on earth.

a) Airport/Train/Bus.  To get to/from the airport, at the
exit from the hostel turn left, walk 3 short blocks to the
big street, turn left, walk about 200 yards to the
Parliament, turn left and within 10 meters look for Bus X95
sign.  It costs 3E.  If you are arriving at the airport,
Bus X95 (several) will be right outside.  It takes 30-45
minutes to the Parliament.  Ask the Hostel Travel Desk for
how to get to the train and 2 bus stations.

Also if you arrive in Athens by train at the LARISSA
station and want to go to the PELOPONNESE bus station--for
international buses, facing the tracks, go left about 50m,
climb up the steps to the overpass, get down the steps on
the other side, turn left, the bus station will be 100m to
your right.  The 1st counter opens at 6am--like to Tirane,
Albania for the 9pm bus for 35.20E, there 16 hours later.

b) Acropolis (hill) & the Parthenon.  Follow the map along
winding and steep streets of PLAKA (the old city) to the
entry.  You have to buy a ticket (6E) at the kiosk.  Then
you have more climbing to do to reach the Parthenon, one of
the most visited (and gorgeous) sites in the world.  You
will also have magnificent views of Athens and Piraeus
(next to the Aegean Sea), as well as the other famous
hill--of 8 in Athens--the Lycovittos Hill with a small
white chapel on top.  Follow the map to more sights.

c) Crete.  The ferries to Crete operate from Piraeus
(Athen's port), taking 5+ hours to the island.  Ask the
hostel travel desk how to get there--and any other place. I
chose to take a 9:30am flight for 90E one-way, the same
coming back at 9pm.  I flew directly to Iraklio (HERAKLION)
to visit KNOSSOS, then took a coastal ride (and back) to
the city of RETHYMNO.

Crete airport is like a zoo, the place packed.  It is open
all night.  From airport, ask for the bus to the city.  Ask
the driver you want to catch the Blue Bus (No. 2) to
Knossos, about 8km away.  Buy all tickets (return too) at
the kiosk next to the bus at the airport, total E3:40.

As far as Crete, the island was the birthplace of 
Ionian culture, Europe's 1st advanced civilization which
flourished from 2800 to 1450 BC. Knossos was discovered and
reconstructed--ongoing--by archeolog Arthur Evans (in
1900), though other archaeologist do not entirely agree
with his reconstruction.  Using post card depictions, etc.
on sale nearby, one catches a glimpse of life in the city
in the old days.  Quite moving really.  By the way, Crete
was the birthplace of El Greco, actually a Greek.

d) Patras on Peloponnese.  The only reason I came here is
to take the rail between DIAKOFTO and KALAVRYTA that passes
thru the deep gorge over the VOURAIKOS River.  The ride to
Patras takes 3.5 hours, Diakofto about 45 min before
Patras.  The land bridge between Greek mainland and the
Peloponnese peninsula is very scenic, with water (the
IONIAN SEA, Bay of Corinin) on both sides.  (I will have
the train schedules at Diakofto on my web site.)  Suffice
it to say for now that there are NOT as many trains to/from
Kalavryta as Lonely Planet lists.  As far as the train
itself, 2 wagons are connected by a small locomotive in the
middle, the first such contraption I have seen.  The
countryside even to Diakofto is glorious, with large rugged
mountains on one side, the sea on the other.  The train
fare is E3:80 (on slow train) to Diakofto, E4:40 on the
fast train to Patras.  Try to catch the 10:10am train from
Athens to Patras so you have time to take the 2:30pm train
from Diakofto to Kalavryta, get back, and still reach the
ferries to Italy and/or Corfu in Patras at midnight.

e) Patras to Corfu.  The HI Hostel had a trip arranged to
the Island of Corfu for 39E, including the ferry and a
night in Corfu. Because of the train to Kalavryta, I
decided to do this of my own.  The fare on deck with a
chair for this 7-hour ride is 30E.  In Patras, after you
get off the train, walk back about 500m on the road next to
the tracks.  The large building in front (left) of you is
the ferry terminal (after Gate 6).  2 ferries operate to
Corfu, only the MINOAN Lines daily at midnight.  Get the
ticket at the station.

f) Island of Corfu, the largest and prettiest of Greece's
IONIAN Islands.  (Based on location, Greek islands are
divided into Ionian (near Adriatic, like Corfu), CYCLADES
(at southwestern part, near Greece, of the Aegean Sea, like
Paros, Myconos, Santorini), DODECANESE Islands (at
southeastern Aegean Sea, near Turkey, like Rhodes),
SPORADES (at central Aegean Sea, like Limnos), and the
NORTH-EASTERN Islands near Turkey, like Lesvos).

From the city of Corfu, it is about 40km to the southern
tip, about the same to the northern tip of the island.  You
can rent motorbikes right across from the Passenger
Terminal for 30E per day for a 125cc moped.  If you want a
cheap city tour, check in your luggage, exit the passenger
terminal to street to find a kiosk that sells bus tickets. 
Get 2 (one for return) for Bus 2.  It traverses just about
every street in Old Town.  The end station comes after
about 15 min.

From Corfu, there are 21 sailings per day to Igoumentsia on
the mainland, from 5:454am to 22:45.  Ticket price is
5:80E.  

g) Igoumenitsa, Ionnina (pronounced Yoanina), Kalambaka. 
These are 3 cities on the mainland, the 1st 40 min by ferry
from Corfu, the 2nd gateway to Tirane, Albania, the 3rd,
more inland and easterly, is one of the most scenic parts
of Greece, with homes and/or monasteries built on massive
sheer columns of rock jutting out of the ground.  This
northern area of Greece is called the ZAGORIA region with
fantastic natural elements, like gorges, waterfalls, rocks,
etc.  The area is marked by PINDOS Mountains.  They are all
around you for the 2-hour ride from Igoumenitsa, even more
awesome on the 3-hour winding, climbing, descending ride
from the latter to Kalambaka where the huge columns start. 
(they are even more pronounced around a city called Meteora
further east, but these will do nicely too.)  Of all the
mountain scenes I passed to date, these surpass the ones
from Carpathians, Transylvanian Alps, the Balkans, etc. 
The landscape is really awesome.

Once in Kalambaka, take the bus to the top of the columns
and walk back.  You might have to stay a night there. 
There are 2 buses to Ionnina: 8:50am and 3:15pm, and a
6:23pm train to Salonika (with connection), and a 7:41pm
direct line to Athens (10E).  The bus station is about 200m
before the train station, one block up.  The bus from
Igoumenitsa passes but does NOT stop in Ionnina, leaves you
on the road before the train station in Kalambaka.

h) Toilets.  Of all the places I visited so far, Greece has
the cleanest and neatest toilets, and without
charge--unlike all others.

i) English.  I am disappointed that not many more Greeks
speak English, and much better.  This is a prime tourist
destination, has been for generations.  One would think the
Government would have made English the second language long
ago.  It was refreshing to hear ALL young people talk
fluent English in Bucharest.  Not so here.  They are one
level above Cheetah, though better than in Slavic
countries.

j) Addendum Greece.  I liked Greece.  It is an earthy
country, very much attuned to having so many foreign
visitors in their midst.  I wish more people spoke English
and the ones who do better, very much like in Italy.  Yet
they are cumbersome parts to both too.  For example, you
arrive by train from Athens to Patras.  A major reson for
coming to Patras is to connect to ferries to Corfu, Italy,
etc.  So you would expect an Info counter or kiosk, maybe
even joined to a ticket office somewhere nearby, or at
least a sign to such.  Nothing!  After deliberating if you
should turn right or left at the exit, you decide to ask
someone. 4 people I asked did not understand me and walked
away.  The 5th said that way (left).  So you walk 200m,
dragging your luggage, to see finally an Info Office.  The
attendant speaks good English.  He explains that you
already passed by 100m one shipping line ticket office,
another one, the Mineoan Office 100m ahead, up a hill one
block, you will see their banner.  This is where yiou must
buy the ticket.  OK you reach the place and buy your
ticket,  The attendant informs you that the ship will
depart from Gate 7, about 150m ahead.  Well, after 200m
first comes a nice building on the left towards the water. 
It is the passenger terminal, but at Gate 6 only.  At the
info counter there you ask how to get to Gate 7.  The girl
points out the exit to the street, turn left and walk 100m.
 Make that 200m, and this is the entry to Gate 7 for cars
ONLY, the passengers are supposed to exit at the terminal
and then walk left--next to the water--to Gate 7.  (By the
way, the only Internet cafe I saw in Patras is right across
the street from Gate 7, at a corner location.)  So you walk
back 200m to the terminal.  By then the Mineoan Line
counter is also open and you find out that you could have
purchased the ticket also there.  You arrive in Corfu.  A
small cozy terminal there with luggage storage too, and an
outside cafe.  BUT to get your ticket, you have to walk
back 200m, find the right counter there for the ship that
goes to Igoumenitsa on the mainland--1.5 hours by ferry. 
OK, so check in the luggage, walk back 200m, get the
ticket, walk back 200m to the terminal, because all else is
by the terminal.  The confusion continues upon arrival in
Igoumenitsa.  Now the only reason people are there is to
catch a bus--no trains there--to a destination.  Again, at
exit no signs as to where the bus station may be.  Again
the same 4 or 5 blank faces who do not understand English,
finally one who does and points to right, only 100m ...
make that 200m, and turn left next to the green pharmacy
sign, walk up a block to a beat-up office that crowded like
a zoo.  You fight your way to a ticket to Kalamate, only 4
hours he says--it is 5--and yes, there is a return bus that
day he thinks--no, it is the next day--you arrive in
Kalamate, the bus driver drops you at a dead intersection,
and says there is no bus or train station in town, walk
that way to the police station for info...  From someone on
the street I learned, indeed there is a train station in
town, and from someone there indeed there is bus station in
town too...  And some friends ask me why I dont answer
their email individually...

Sirman