Report 5: Northern Europe, Sep. 7 to Oct. 3, 1999
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Hello from Ireland, from Cork (south), west-coast to Limmerick and Dublin (East-Center) Date: 9/26/99 9:52:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time Typing this from the Globe Cafe on the O'Connell St. in Dublin. leaving tomorrow night for London by bus, connecting to bus to Paris-another 2 nights without sleep, but I like this on the on-the-go lifestyle... Yvonne, my lowly bus-mate from Germany, received your message. I am glad you are settling down nicely, and with positive mental attitude, in your new environment. Good luck with all your plans and aspirations. I'll be in touch. Femsi, thanks for that blue shoulder bag, which is holding all the trawl stuff I am accumulating along the way. However, I am offering my gratitude with mixed emotions as the damn thing now weighs 25 kg (60 or so pounds), which, before my trip, I had resolved to carry, as a physical exercise. Of course, there are times when I feel like an ass for having decided so. Tom, your email about the Western Coast of Ireland being most beautiful reached me in the morning of my trip to Cork. I bit the bullet, took a train to Dower, rented a car, and drove west to Lands End, then up to Wales. After crisscrossing that part, I came back to Bristol, dropped off the car, waited for the 11 -. 30 night bus to Cork, the same I would have taken from London. Reached the ferry station at 2 in the mom, took the 4-hour ferry, continued another 4.5 hours by bus to Cork. Slept the night in Cork-Isaac Hostel is really nice and close-rented an Alamo car, and drove the southwest comer of Ireland thru Bandon, Clonakilty, Bantry, Kenmare, Killarny, which I was told is the most scenic area of Ireland, then to Limerick, to Dublin. Have whole afternoon and night here, before catching the 10 (mom) bus tomorrow to London, which, as you remember, includes also a ferry ride. Thanks for your suggestions for enhancing my visit. 2. Anatomy of HEAVY backpacks and some of the idiots who carry them. When I was in South Pacific, I had mailed to myself 3 or 4 heavy packages containing the travel brochures and post cards I collected along the way-, I did NOT this time. Why? Before my trip, I watched on TV a lady mountain climber put more and more rocks in her backpack and climb steps with them, in preparation for the mountain. I resolved to do the same, though along the way my resolution oscillated occasionally. Indeed, one of the reasons I stayed at the dump in London is so that I could leave the heavy (25 kg) second bag there for my excursion to Scotland. And I felt like a bird with only one light bag. And the real backpack has, besides back straps, nice wheels. Often I also felt like cheating, like in bus and train stations, smooth sidewalks, etc., by merely loading the heavy bag on top of the one with wheels and rolling both. Of course, on rough Old Town streets, usually covered with cobble stones, I had to carry them, regardless of how I felt, the heavy one, which is only a shoulder bag, on top of the backpack. Of course, it is one thing to decide to exercise and another to actually carry a 33 kg load on one's back, sometimes for a mile and/or 4 stories up. These do not always sync, especially when the exercise comes after a 20+ hours of bus or train ride, and/or 2 nights without proper sleep. The satisfaction came with the satisfaction of watching myself evolve physically, almost on a daily basis. But there were/are also additional costs, besides the heavy load. Like many other true backpackers, almost all my toes and parts of my feet are now bandaged and there are times, after a "heavy" and long day, when I walk as if on stilts, despite the new Alpine shoes I purchased in Stockholm, which now feel NOT wide or long enough ... In this line, resolution or not, I do not want to declare myself a total idiot. My return ticket to Miami is set for Oct. 5. However, I also made contingency plans for extending my stay until about Christmas to do also Southern Europe and Morocco. I will decide about the extension in Pads, after a good nights sleep and some rest from the hectic pace I have been pursuing, which also includes arranging my trip on the go. I have an idea where I should be next, but the day/time, mode of transport, and details I decide on-the-go. Albeit, if I continue after Oct. 5, 1 will leave the heavy bag in storage at the hostel in Paris, and accumulate travel stuff in my backpack which is easier to carry due to the twin straps. On the funny side, sometimes I left the heavy bag alone at a comer at a bus/train station, like in Bratislava, to go sightseeing for 2 or more hours, thinking that if anyone was idiotic enough to walk off with a 25 kg load, he/she was welcome, perhaps also doing me a favor. So far, I seem to be the only idiot willing to do so. Then again, I have on hand, at the condo and with me, more travel info and exotic details than the American Express travel office. Pads may be merely a stopover destination for me this time. I haw to be in Munich for the start of the Octoberfest, though I am really not a beer drinker. I am going there to listen to German drinking/drunk songs which are rough and lively. I'll decide how long to stay when I am there . . .