Report, Sirman's Emirates & Oman. Dec. 5 to 9, 2002
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Sent on Dec. 8, 2002 from Dubai. US $ = about 4 Dirhams 1 Dirham = 26 cents USA. Omani Rial = 10 Dubai Dirhams Friends, I am typing all this in about an hour at an Internet cafe. I am typing as fast as the thoughts come to my mind, so you edit the text. Tom and I are on our 2-month East Asia tour; I (alone) will continue for another month to So. Africa. The deal is with Malaysian Airlines. You can check their page if you are interested. The basic price was for $799 for 30 days of multi destination flights from their hub at Kuala Lumpur. I paid extra to extend the trip to 90 days, and paid extra to add India and S. Africa. The total price came to $2,200. As the flight from USA to Cape Town, So. Africa alone is normally $1,400+, the price I paid for all these a dozen or so destinations is really a bargain. Of course, we have to find the hotels and arrange our tours at each destination. So here goes the 1st report. 1) UAE deserves many superlatives. Briefly, it came into being in 1971, after oil was discovered in the area. SEVEN emirates decided to establish a united nation. Of these the most known are the ones in the cities of Abu Dhabi and Dubai, plus 5 others. Abu Dhabi is the richest of them and serves as the capitol, whereas Dubai is the commercial center. Sheik Zayed is the current president of the UAE, while each emirate has also its own ruler. Tom and I visited all 7 by car, driving some 1300 km, also to Liwa Oasis, 250km inland from Abu Dhabi, to find there, after passing gorgeous dual-tone (beige and crimson) sand dunes, a huge man-made oasis and a 5-star hotel. Americans do not a visa to enter UAE or Oman. I would rate Dubai as one of the most beautiful large cities I have seen. It does not have the rare natural beauty of Istanbul or Hong Kong; yet it is beautiful in its own right, surrounded by the Arabian Gulf on the East, and a wonderful wide creek in its middle. The "creek" is a large waterway framed along its shores by some of the most spectacular large architecture--office and public buildings--I have seen in any city. There is NO city in USA that can compare to it, except Las Vegas along (Las Vegas Boulevard. Nothing else in LV can match the rest of Dubai. We have seen photos of what Dubai was like prior to 1971. What this city has achieved in these short 31 years is truly amazing. It has borrowed the best and most functional settings from the USA, Japan, and Europe, and blended these to its own decorative Arab heritage. No boxy buildings and dead spaces here. The beautiful individual parts are arranged to create a city prettier than the sum its parts. Add to these beautiful parks, tastefully placed colorful Christmas and neon lights on buildings, some arranged like a huge crown over already very attractive buildings, you really have something uniquely beautiful here. Then picture the reflection of these on the water, along with busy dhows of various sizes, the larger ones being loaded with goods for trade to traditional destinations, like India, Pakistan, Iran, etc., the smaller ones carrying people across to the other shore. To get a feel of the vibrancy of the city walk the shores of the creek one night, go to the Naser Square on another. As for Burj Al Arab, one of world's most exclusive hotels in the shape of a sail, it is some distance from the city center. Its architecture is captivating. Overall, Dubai lack nothing on other major metropolitan cities of the world, except one characteristic. This is obviously a Muslim city. In public, men outnumber native women by almost 90 percent to 10 percent. All local women are accompanied by a man from their family. But there are signs of change even in this aspect in that the city is dotted by ladies of the night who are usually from the Far-East. As to the rest of UAE, the superlatives continue. How about 120km 6 lanes of highway that is lit its entire length by 10-meter metal poles at 50-meter intervals, each decorated by 6 lighting fixtures on top? Imagine this between all cities. Imagine an asphalt road that looks as if it is first manufactured and then laid as road, without any blemish on its surface for 120 km? Then imagine the 3 rows of plants along both sides of this road--often thru sand dunes--that are connected by a water hose for each plant for say 100 km? Imagine forestation plans all along the desert that has converted sand dunes to trees, it seems. Imagine a complex artwork of a wrought-iron fence, each 8-foot panel perhaps $1000 in USA, for 10 or more miles on one side, on all 4 sides . . . Yes, the West has probably achieved all this for the UAE for unbelievable sums, but someone in UAE must have decided on the plan, on the architecture, on the city design. All I can say is UAE leaders must have had natural talent as artists, for the result is nothing less than an exquisite art work. 2) As for OMAN, it is also a sultanate like Brunei. The reigning sultan is from the Kaboos dynasty. The country has been independent since the early 1600s. The bus ride from Dubai to Musket is about 5 hours. You must get an exit stamp from UAE at the border post of Hatta, before you get an entry stamp into Oman 10km later. Both are free to US citizens. The drive from Dubai reaches Muscat in 4.5 hours. Muscat is the antithesis of Dubai. Nothing cosmopolitan or buzzing here. Yet, the city--buildings all white--has a story-book beauty to it. It is surrounded by Gulf of Oman on one side, then framed by huge sharp rocky hills that are liberally dotted by old forts. The exclusive Al Bustan hotel there is one of the most beautiful hotels I have seen anywhere. The city is made of 3 parts: the industrial Ruwi that is inland, Mutrah with its 3-4 mile circular water-front strip, and the Old Town Muscat that has some of the most exquisite architecture in the city. Further south is the Al Bustan hotel also placed between the sea and rocks. Given a limited opportunity for travel, neither Dubai nor Oman can be considered as primary destinations. However, Tom and I felt enriched by both UAE and Oman.